We had a lightning fast trip to a town called Potosi, a famous mining city that made much of Spain's fortune in the 16th century, and also boasts to be the highest city in the world (4060m). The streets are again steep but with a colonial charm that was lacking in La Paz: lots of cobbles and pretty buildings.
Our main aim was to visit the mine and we were collected at 9am sharp by our tour guide. He took us around the streets of Potosi explaining some of the culture of the city, including details of how the miners were exploited terribly by the Spanish and how the miners revolted and now most have formed co-operatives. The next stop was the miner's market where we bought gifts for the miners, including coca leaves, 96% alcohol (for offerings), cigarettes and dynamite. Yes, dynamite, you know, like you do when you go to the market!
On to the mines where we donned helmets and waterproofs and headed into one of the shafts. Silver was what made Spain's fortune but now the mine produces zinc and other minerals. The people who work there earn about 25 Bolivianos per day, just under 2 quid, and most die of nasty diseases within 5 years because of the toxic chemicals they are exposed to.
After offering some coca leaves, a fag and some 96% alcohol (of course having a wee nip is obligatory), and El kissed the idol's knob (for fertility, of course), we ventured into the mines. Every now and then we let 3 men pass with the old style mine carts reminiscent of Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom. Health and safety in this place is a token for the tourists as we wandered past open holes and cables draped all over the place.
Still, it was a fascinating insight into these guys' lives and they appreciated the little extras we gave them as a beer and a fag don't half help the day go by. Finally, we returned to the outside for the piece de resistance: a dynamite demo. Actually, this is REALLY what Kieran wanted to see and once the fuse had been lit we all held the stick of dynamite for photo opportunities before our guide legged it over the way and back while we waited for the big bang.
It was big. And it banged!!! Cool!
That over, nothing else in Potosi really floated our boat. The museum seemed boring and after a slap up meal we hopped in a taxi to take us to Sucre, a city supposed to be somewhere to chill and take it easy for a few days...
Sunday, September 16, 2007
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